Starburst Granny Square Free Crochet Pattern

This gorgeous granny square pattern is the perfect accent to a plain background and can be used in blankets, bags, and any other project you can think of!

The Pattern

Yarn

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  • WeCrochet CotLin (DK)
  • (1 skein) Swan
    • white
  • (<1 skein) Marigold
    • orange
  • (<1 skein) Clementine
    • dark orange
  • (<1 skein) Creme Brulee
    • custard yellow

Notions

  • Size C 2.5mm Clover Amour hook
  • tapestry needle
  • stitch markers

Abbreviations

  • BLO: back loop only
  • ch: chain
  • ch-sp: chain space (the space created by a chain)
  • CC: contrast color
  • dec: decrease
  • hdc: half double crochet
  • inc: increase (work two single crochets in one stitch)
  • MC: main color
  • MR: magic ring
  • rnd: round
  • RS: right side
  • sc: single crochet
  • sk: skip
  • x sc: work x number of single crochets
  • sl st: slip stitch
  • st(s): stitch(es)
  • tr: treble crochet
  • WS: wrong side
  • (x sts): total number of stitches for the round
  • (…) x: work all steps within parentheses x number of times

Technical Notes

  1. Crochet in continuous spiral rounds, unless specified otherwise. Use a stitch marker or piece of yarn to keep track of the last stitch in each round.

Color Coding

In this pattern, the MC is white, CC1 is orange, CC2 is dark orange. and CC3 is custard yellow.

Special Stitches

  • Popcorn stitch:
  • Cluster stitch:

Final Size

3.5″ x 3.5″

GRANNY SQUARE (start in CC3)

  • Round 1: Working into a MR, chain 4 (counts as a dc + ch), (dc, ch) x 7. Sl st to the first st (fig. 3). (8 dc total with 8 ch spaces)
  • Sl st to the next ch-sp, changing color to CC1 (here’s a great tutorial on how to change color!). See fig. 4.
Fig. 1: chain 4 into the MR
Fig. 2: After working (dc, ch) x7
Fig. 3: Sl st to the first st, pull the tail tight to close the circle.
Fig. 4: Change to CC1 in the next ch-sp

  • Round 2 (popcorn stitch round): In CC1, chain 2 from the ch-sp, then work 4 dc into the same ch-sp. There should be 5 sts total (fig. 5).
  • Remove the hook from the loop in fig. 5. Then, insert the hook from front to back into the space between the first 3 chains and the next dc, and pick up the loop again on the hook (fig. 6).
  • Pull the loop through the stitch and chain 2 (fig. 7).
  • Make the next popcorn stitch by working 5 dcs into the next ch-sp, removing the hook, and pulling through the loop (fig. 8). Chain 2.
  • You should have 8 popcorn stitches and 8 chain spaces.
  • Repeat this step in all the rest of the chain spaces, then sl st to the first st and switch to MC in the next ch-sp (fig. 9). Cut CC1 and weave in end.
Fig. 5: After chaining 3 and working 4 dcs into the first ch-sp, remove the hook from this loop.
Fig. 6: Insert the hook between the ch 3 and first dc st, then re-insert the hook into the loop and pull through.
Fig. 7: Chain 2.
Fig. 8: In the next ch-sp, work 5 dcs and complete the popcorn st.
Fig. 8: After working popcorn sts all around, sl st to the first st.
Fig. 9: In the next ch-sp, switch to MC.

  • Round 3 (cluster stitch round): From the ch-sp in the last rnd, use MC and chain 2 (counts as a dc). Then, work on dc in the same ch-sp, but do not finish the dc, leaving 2 loops on the hook (fig. 10). Work one more dc in the same manner, so that there are now 3 loops on the hook (fig. 11). Yarn over and draw through all three loops. You have just worked one cluster stitch. Chain 2 (fig. 12).
  • In the same ch-sp, work 3 incomplete dcs, then yarn over and pull through the remaining four loops. This is a cluster st. Chain 2.
  • In the next ch-sp, work 3 incomplete dcs, yarn over, pull through four loops, and ch 2. Repeat in the same ch-sp.
  • Repeat this step in all the remaining ch-spaces, so that there are two cluster stitches per ch-sp, and then sl st to the first st (fig. 13).
  • You should have 16 total clusters and 16 chain spaces.
  • Sl st to the next ch-sp, and switch colors to CC2. Do not cut MC since we will use it later.
Fig. 10: After chaining 2 (counts as a dc), work a double crochet, but omit the last step. You should have 2 loops left.
Fig. 11: Work one more incomplete dc, you should have 3 loops left.
Fig. 12: Yarn over and pull through all 3 loops. (This is a cluster st). Next, chain 2.
Fig. 13: After working cluster sts in all the ch-sps, sl st to the first st.
Fig. 14: Sl st to the next ch-sp and switch to CC2.

  • Round 4: In CC2, ch 2 and work 2 dcs in the same ch-sp (fig. 15). In the next ch-sp, work 3 hdcs. In the next ch-sp, work 3 dcs. In the next ch-sp, work 3 trs, then ch 2, then work 3 more trs in the same ch-sp (fig. 16). This will form a corner.
  • Continuing around, work 3 dcs in the next ch-sp, 3 hdcs in the next ch-sp, and then 3 dcs in the next ch-sp. Then we will work one more corner by crocheting 3 trs, ch 2, 3 trs in the same ch-sp.
  • Repeat this step two more times, and then sl st to the first st. Sl st to the next ch-sp and switch back to CC1. Cut CC2 and weave in end.
  • You should have 12 hdcs, 24 dcs, 24 trs, and 4 chain spaces.
Fig. 15: Chain 2, then work 2 dcs in the same ch-sp.
Fig. 16: Granny square after forming the first corner.
Fig. 17: Granny square after finishing round 4.

Round 5: In CC1, chain 2 and work 2 dcs in the same ch-sp. Work 3 dcs in the next two ch-sps; in the corner, work 3 dcs, 2 ch, and 3 dcs in the same ch-sp (fig. 18). Continue all around the granny square, working 3 dcs into each ch-sp and *3 dcs, 2 ch, 3 dcs* into each corner ch-sp (fig. 19).

You should have 72 dcs and 4 chain spaces.

Finish off CC1, leaving a long tail for sewing.

Fig. 18: Granny square after working the corner.
Fig. 19: Granny square when finished.

Weave in the ends if you haven’t already by using a tapestry needle and threading the ends through the backs of other crochet stitches.