Looking to learn another crochet stitch? The alpine stitch is a great one to add to your list! It is easy to learn and creates a beautiful texture by alternating between normal and front post crochet stitches.
Plus, this stitch is super simple! If you know how to single and double crochet, you already know everything needed to learn this stitch.
The alpine stitch is great for any project. I’ve seen it used for blankets, hats, sweaters, scarves, and more! Use this stitch to add texture and warmth.
The texture in this stitch comes from its front post stitches. These are made just like regular crochet stitches; however, they are made around previous stitches instead of being worked into the top “v.” This tutorial walks you through everything!
- Crochet Hook
- Scissors (for cutting yarn at the end)
- Tapestry Needle (for weaving in ends)
In the photos below, I am using worsted weight yarn from my stash. It is 100% acrylic yarn. The hook I am using is a 4.5 mm hook. If your stitches tend to be tight, I would recommend sizing up your hook (about 1-2 hook sizes or 0.5-1.0 mm). Feel free to experiment with different sized hooks and yarns, as well as different yarn types!
Before we begin, this stitch is also perfect for blending different colors together! I personally think that a series of rainbow yarns, pastel colors, or any gradient lends itself beautifully to this stitch. Pictured below is a rainbow swatch of the alpine stitch from Naztazia.com. Without further ado, the alpine stitch!
How to Crochet the Alpine Stitch
- DC = double crochet
- SC = single crochet
- E-FPDC = extended front post double crochet
Check out this YouTube video by Crochet Me Lovely for a tutorial on the extended front post double crochet stitch. The video is beginner friendly and walks you through each step of the stitch. Once you’ve learned the E-FPDC, continue on to the alpine stitch tutorial below!
- Chain an even number of stitches.
- Row 1: DC in the fourth chain from your hook and in each stitch across. The stitches you skipped count as your first DC. Your total number of stitches will be 2 stitches less than your starting chain. Chain 1 and turn your work.
- Row 2: SC in each stitch across. You should have the same number of stitches as in row 1. Chain 2 and turn.
- Note: You will always chain twice to begin a DC or E-FPDC row. They count as your first stitch in the row.
- Row 3: (The chain 2 counts as a DC). In the next stitch, E-FPDC around the DC stitch below in Row 1. When you draw up the loop, make sure that it is just above your current row. This will keep your piece from curling. *In the next stitch, DC as normal on top of the SC in row 2. In the next stitch, E-FPDC around the DC from row 1* repeat from * to * across. Chain 1 and turn your work.
- Row 4: SC in each stitch across. Chain 2 and turn.
- Row 5: (The chain 2 counts as an E-FPDC). In the next stitch, DC as normal on top of the SC in row 4. *In the next stitch, E-FPDC around the DC in row 3. In the next stitch, DC on top of the SC row.* Repeat from * to * across. Chain 1 at the end of the row and turn.
- Row 6: SC in each stitch across. Chain 2 and turn.
- Row 7: *DC, then E-FPDC* across. Chain 1 and turn.
- Row 8: SC in each stitch across. Chain 2 and turn your work.
- Row 9: *E-FPDC, DC* across. Chain 1 and turn.
Continue following this pattern, alternating between SC and DC/E-FPDC rows, until your piece reaches your desired height.
That’s all there is to it! In the photos above, I chained 20 and had 18 stitches in each row. It can be really helpful to count at the end of every row for the alpine stitch. This way you don’t drop any stitches and your piece has nice straight edges.
Tips and Tricks!
- E-FPDC will always be worked into the double crochet from the row below. In the same vein, DC will always be worked into the SC row below.
- If the edges of your piece are not as straight as you’d like, add a border with a simple slip stitch or SC to straighten out the piece.
- There are many ways to crochet the alpine stitch. I find that this method is the simplest. However, you may want to explore other methods. Check out this article titled “How to Crochet Alpine Stitch in Two Ways” from Craft-Her for 2 more methods!
What to do if your piece is curling
To get a really nice flat piece with straight edges, it is key to make sure you bring up the yarn on the extended front post double crochet stitches. When those front post double crochet stitches are too tight, the alpine stitch has a tendency to curl. To avoid this curling, bring up a generous amount of yarn when you yarn over. Loosening your tension will help as well.
Of course, you can always try out a larger crochet hook if your piece is still curling. Using a larger hook will loosen up your stitches for you, so that you don’t have to worry about your tension!
If a larger hook does not help the curling either, you can try switching the front post double crochet stitches with front post treble crochet stitches. This stitch is longer and should help keep your piece flat. This minute-long video, Front Post Treble Crochet Technique, by Leisure Arts Inc on YouTube guides you through the stitch.
If all else fails, blocking your work will flatten out the piece. I’ve written about blocking acrylic yarn with steam. Check out this link to How to Block Acrylic the Easy Way (in 3 Simple Steps!) for more information and detailed instructions. Crocheting an edge or border along your piece is also a common fix for curling!
That’s all for today. I hope you enjoyed this tutorial and go on to try out the alpine stitch for yourself—happy crocheting!
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