This Mini Ice Skate is my newest Christmas ornament free crochet pattern!
Read on to learn more about my design process and inspiration, or scroll to the end to get the free pattern. If you’re in a hurry and need to take this pattern offline, grab the beautifully formatted, ad-free, PDF pattern from Etsy here.
Table of Contents
A super detailed and low-sew mini ice skate!
This adorable tiny ice skate has enough details that it’s not for the faint of heart, but it works up surprisingly easily and the main body of the boot is entirely no sew!
I love making no sew and low sew patterns because I think it just makes for a smoother construction and assembly process. Usually, it means that structurally the amigurumi is a bit more solid as well!
For this ice skate, the sole is worked first using the foundation chain method to create an oval, and then the body of the boot is built up from it. My favorite part is when you use a neat trick to split for the tongue of the boot, which you will work before finishing the boot top.
The only other component is the blade, which is sewn on at the end, and the laces!
Low-sew projects tend to be a bit more advanced because they utilize slightly more complex crochet techniques like back loop only, so this is a great project for anyone looking to learn new skills.
A palm sized ornament, bag charm, or gift!
This miniature ice skate is simply adorable and fits into the palm of your hand! I love the small footprint (*ahem*) and coincidentally, it works great as an ornament for your Christmas tree, or a bag charm (if it’s the wrong time of year).
I have great memories of ice skating in Frog Pond in Boston with a cup of hot chocolate and I love how figure skates evoke memories of pristine snow and crisp air.
If you also love skating or have someone in your life who enjoys gliding around on ice, this is a great gift. Just insert a lobster clasp keychain to easily make it into an ornament or a bag charm!
If you want the blade to be a bit more secure you can always insert the blade around a toothpick or a piece of wire (folded in at both ends for safety).
This skate also works as a base for a hocky skate – just switch out the colors to something a little more dark and a little embroidery goes a long way!
More blog posts for amigurumi beginners:
- My Foolproof Guide to Crocheting Amigurumi for Beginners
- What’s the best stuffing for amigurumi? (+ how to stuff!)
- How to Sew Amigurumi Parts Together (easy photo tutorial!)
- If you want to take this pattern offline, grab the beautifully formatted, ad-free, PDF pattern from Etsy here!
This adorable mini skate has a real tongue, sole, and blade and is the perfect gift for the figure skater in your life! I love this pattern because it’s such a lifelike miniature, and the best part is that it’s practically a no sew! This pattern uses clever techniques like BLO and working back and forth to create all the elements, and is suitable for an intermediate crocheter.
Confused about materials? For all my personal recommendations of my most-used tools, yarns, and supplies, check out my favorites in this complete guide!
- WeCrochet Brava Sport (sport)
- (<1 skein) White
- (<1 skein) Brindle (medium brown)
- (<1 skein) Silver
- Size D 3.25mm Clover Amour hook
- fiberfill stuffing
- tapestry needle
- stitch markers
- BLO: back loop only
- ch: chain
- CC: contrast color
- dec: decrease
- hdc: half double crochet
- inc: increase (work two single crochets in one stitch)
- MC: main color
- MR: magic ring
- rnd: round
- RS: right side
- sc: single crochet
- sk: skip
- x sc: work x number of single crochets
- sl st: slip stitch
- st(s): stitch(es)
- WS: wrong side
- (x sts): total number of stitches for the round
- (…) x: work all steps within parentheses x number of times
- Crochet in continuous spiral rounds, unless specified otherwise. Use a stitch marker or piece of yarn to keep track of the last stitch in each round.
- When filling with polyester stuffing, pull apart each large chunk into many smaller chunks. This ensures an even distribution of firmness within the amigurumi.
- To avoid large holes in the crochet fabric, increase tension until the holes cannot be seen, or choose a crochet hook a size down.
- Use sewing pins to secure parts of the amigurumi before you sew them.
- Invisible finish off: see this tutorial
2.5″ tall x 2″ wide
In this pattern, the MC is white, CC1 is brown, and CC2 is silver.
BOOT BOTTOM (in CC1)
- Begin: Chain 10
- Round 1: Beginning in second chain from the hook, sc 6, then hdc in the next chain, then dc in the next chain, and then work 4 double crochet stitches all in the last chain. Turn the chain piece, and then work a dc in the next chain, an hdc in the next chain, and then 6 more single crochets in the remaining chains. See fig. 1 for chart, and fig. 2 for finished piece. For a tutorial on this technique, click here. (20 sts)
- Round 2: (sc, inc) x2, 2 sc, (hdc, hdc inc) x4, 2 sc, (sc, inc) x2 (28 sts)
- Round 3: (2 sc, inc) x2, 2 sc, (2 hdc, hdc inc) x4, 2 sc, (2 sc, inc) x2 (36 sts)
- Switch to MC.
- Round 4: BLO, sc around (36 sts)
- Round 5-6 (2 rnds): sc around (36 sts)
- Round 7: 15 sc, 3 dec, 15 sc (33 sts)
- Round 8: sc around (33 sts)
- Round 9: 13 sc, 3 dec, 14 sc (30 sts)
- Round 10: 12 sc, 3 dec, 12 sc (27 sts)
- Round 11: 16 sc, then turn your work, chain 1 (see fig. 3), and work 5 sc back. Chain and turn.
TONGUE (in MC. Work in turned rows.)
Row 1-7 (7 rows): 5 sc, chain and turn (5 sts)
Your last row should be on the right side of your work, so that you are looking at the toe of the shoe (see fig. 5 for finished piece). Finish off and weave in end.
We will now work back and forth on the remaining stitches to build up the top of the boot.
BOOT TOP (in MC. Work in turned rows.)
- Row 1: Begin on the first stitch to the left of the tongue (fig. 6), and pick up scs across the remaining stitches of the boot bottom, chain and turn. (22 sts)
- Row 2: dec, 18 sc, dec, chain and turn (fig. 7). (20 sts)
- Row 3: dec, 16 sc, dec, chain and turn. (18 sts)
- Row 4: dec, 14 sc, dec, chain and turn. (16 sts)
- Row 5: 16 sc (16 sts)
You should now be on the side that is close to the right side of the tongue (the red dot in fig. 8). We will now crochet a border over the entire top of the shoe. Continue working single crochets left down the side of the boot top and then up the tongue, crocheting all around until you get back to the red dot. Finish off and weave in end.
Stuff the toe firmly, and the top of the boot lightly.
BLADE (in CC2)
- Row 1: Chain 10 (10 sts)
- Row 2: Beginning from second chain in hook, work 9 single crochets across, chain and turn (9 sts)
- Row 3: Sc across, chain and turn (9 sts)
- Row 4: Fold your work in half lengthwise, and insert your hook into the first chain from row 1 (see fig. 9). Work 2 single crochets. Then, chain 1 and sl st into the same stitch as the second sc. Work 7 more sl sts across until you reach the end of the row. Chain and turn. (9 sts)
- Row 5: Work 2 single crochets, then chain and sl st into the same stitch as the second sc. Finish off, leaving a tail for sewing (fig. 10). (2 sts)
- Using the beginning and end tail, sew the blade to the bottom of the boot. Only sew the top two bumps formed in rows 4 and 5 to the bottom of the boot.
Lace the shoes: Cut 8 inches of CC1. Using a tapestry needle, pull the yarn through the left and right sides of the boot, so that there is an equal length of yarn on the left and the right. Continue lacing the boot (click here for a helpful tutorial, and also see fig. 12 below). Tie a butterfly knot and trim the ends.
Fig. 12: Process of lacing the boot. Thread the CC1 yarn across the toe, right under the left and right flaps of the boot. Center the yarn. Alternate between threading the left and right ends of the yarn through the left and right flaps of the boot. I mostly followed this tutorial!
Your mini skate amigurumi is all done! I hope you enjoyed crocheting it and found the pattern helpful. I would love to see your finished amigurumi, so share a picture on Instagram with me by using the #littleworldofwhimsy and tagging me @littleworldofwhimsy.