Faux Fur Teddy Bear Throw Pillow Free Crochet Pattern

My Teddy Bear Throw Pillow pattern is my newest home decor free crochet pattern!

Read on to learn more about my design process and inspiration, or scroll to the end to get the free pattern. If you’re in a hurry and need to take this pattern offline, grab the beautifully formatted, ad-free, PDF pattern from Etsy here.

The easiest crochet cushion ever!

This simple and modern accent cushion is made from simple single crochet stitches built up into two panels and then crocheted together with a beautiful border.

I love crocheting home decor items and this adorable pillow is my latest! The cute bear motif on top is worked as part of the pillow itself, so no sewing — hooray!

If you’re apprehensive about changing colors or using the intarsia colorwork method, I’ve got plenty of tutorials to keep you covered. It was actually my first time using tapestry crochet methods, so if I can do it, you can too!

You’ll learn how to follow a basic colorwork chart and feel confident about switching colors and managing two different balls of yarn.

If you’re feeling confident, you can even design your own animal silhouette or letter to go onto the pillow. Just make sure it fits in the 20×20 square!

Tips for making this pattern!

If you’ve never worked with faux fur yarn before, here are a few tips to get you going on your way. It tends to be the trickiest yarn to work with, so if it’s your first time working with any novelty yarn, I recommend you swap this out for a different color of Wool-Ease, or with a velvet yarn of the same weight.

  • Faux fur yarn sheds very easily when frogged.
    • Because faux fur yarn generally is made up of a lot of tiny bristles stuck onto a central string, if you frog it, the friction can easily lead to a lot of shedding and stray yarn pieces.
    • The best solution to this is to try to avoid frogging, and also working in a place that can be easily cleaned.
  • Use your fingers to feel for the gaps between the stitches, rather than trying to visually count them. It’s impossible to see individual stitches when they are worked in faux fur, so use stitch markers liberally and just poke your hook where you think a stitch *should* be… and it’ll probably work out!

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The Pattern

  • If you want to take this pattern offline, grab the beautifully formatted, ad-free, PDF pattern from Etsy here!

Description

This adorable army bear is at the ready with a smart removable beret and camouflage colored uniform. You can customize his crest to any design you like, as well as adjust the color of the beret. This is an advanced beginner pattern because of BLO techniques and some extra sewing.

Yarn

Confused about materials? For all my personal recommendations of my most-used tools, yarns, and supplies, check out my favorites in this complete guide!

  • WeCrochet Brava Sport (sport)
    • (<1 skein) Almond (light brown)
    • (<1 skein) Dublin (camo green)
    • (scrap) Red
    • (scrap) Custard (gold)

Notions

  • Size D 3.25mm Clover Amour hook
  • 4.0mm safety eyes
  • brown embroidery thread
  • fiberfill stuffing
  • tapestry needle
  • stitch markers

Abbreviations

  • BLO: back loop only
  • ch: chain
  • CC: contrast color
  • dec: decrease
  • hdc: half double crochet
  • inc: increase (work two single crochets in one stitch)
  • MC: main color
  • MR: magic ring
  • rnd: round
  • RS: right side
  • sc: single crochet
  • sk: skip
  • x sc: work x number of single crochets
  • sl st: slip stitch
  • st(s): stitch(es)
  • WS: wrong side
  • (x sts): total number of stitches for the round
  • (…) x: work all steps within parentheses x number of times

Technical Notes

  1. Crochet in continuous spiral rounds, unless specified otherwise. Use a stitch marker or piece of yarn to keep track of the last stitch in each round.
  1. When filling with polyester stuffing, pull apart each large chunk into many smaller chunks. This ensures an even distribution of firmness within the amigurumi.
  2. To avoid large holes in the crochet fabric, increase tension until the holes cannot be seen, or choose a crochet hook a size down.
  3. Stuff the head and the body firmly at the openings so that the neck is stable upon completion.
  1. Use sewing pins to secure parts of the amigurumi before you sew them.

Color Coding

For this pattern, the MC is camo green, CC1 is light brown, CC2 is gold, and CC3 is red.

Special Stitches

  • How to embroider a nose: see this tutorial

Final Size

3.5″ x 2.5″

HEAD (in MC)

  • Round 1: 6 sc in MR (6 sts)
  • Round 2: inc x6 (12 sts)
  • Round 3: (sc, inc) x6 (18 sts)
  • Round 4: (2 sc, inc) x6 (24 sts)
  • Round 5: (3 sc, inc) x6 (30 sts)
  • Round 6: (4 sc, inc) x6 (36 sts)
  • Round 7: (5 sc, inc) x6 (42 sts)
  • Round 8-9 (2 rnds): sc around (42 sts)
  • Round 10: (6 sc, inc) x6 (48 sts)
  • Round 11-12 (2 rnds): sc around (48 sts)
  • Insert 4.0mm safety eyes between rounds 11 and 12 (counting from top), 6 sts apart.
  • Round 13: (7 sc, inc) x6 (54 sts)
  • Round 14: (7 sc, dec) x6 (48 sts)
  • Round 15: (6 sc, dec) x6 (42 sts)
  • Round 16: (5 sc, dec) x6 (36 sts)
  • Round 17: (4 sc, dec) x6 (30 sts)
  • Round 18: (3 sc, dec) x6 (24 sts)
  • Round 19: (2 sc, dec) x6 (18 sts)
  • Stuff.
  • Round 20: (sc, dec) x6 (12 sts)
  • Round 21: dec x6 (6 sts)
  • Finish off and weave in end. See figure 1.

The Pattern

  • If you want to take this pattern offline, grab the beautifully formatted, ad-free, PDF pattern from Etsy here!

Description

This adorable pillow with teddy bear motif is perfect as an accent cushion for a child’s room or for you! It’s easy and fast to whip up, and you can use any contrasting yarn for the motif — not just faux fur!

Yarn

Confused about materials? For all my personal recommendations of my most-used tools, yarns, and supplies, check out my favorites in this complete guide!

  • Wool-Ease Thick and Quick (Super Bulky)
    • (3 skeins) Fisherman
      • White
  • WeCrochet Fable Fur (Super Bulky)
    • (<1 skein) Paloma
      • pink
    • If you don’t have access to faux fur yarn, you can substitute this for any super bulky yarn in a contrasting color. You can also use velvet yarn or other novelty yarns for texture.

Notions

  • Size I 5.5mm Clover Amour hook
  • fiberfill stuffing
  • tapestry needle
  • stitch markers
  • 18″ pillow insert
  • blocking materials

Abbreviations

  • BLO: back loop only
  • ch: chain
  • CC: contrast color
  • dec: decrease
  • FSC: foundation single crochet (tutorial here)
  • hdc: half double crochet
  • inc: increase (work two single crochets in one stitch)
  • MC: main color
  • MR: magic ring
  • rnd: round
  • RS: right side
  • sc: single crochet
  • sk: skip
  • x sc: work x number of single crochets
  • sl st: slip stitch
  • st(s): stitch(es)
  • WS: wrong side
  • (x sts): total number of stitches for the round
  • (…) x: work all steps within parentheses x number of times

Technical Notes

  • Crochet in turned rows. Use a stitch marker to keep track of the last stitch on each side of the row to prevent your work from accidentally getting narrower.
  • This pattern uses intarsia colorwork. For a full tutorial, please see Method 1 at this link.
  • This pattern also uses a crochet chart. For a great tutorial, check out this link.

Color Coding

For this pattern, the MC is camo green, CC1 is light brown, CC2 is gold, and CC3 is red.

Special Stitches

  • How to embroider a nose: see this tutorial

Final Size

Approx. 19″ x 19″

Gauge

4″ x 4″ = 9 sc stitches by 10 rows

BACK (in MC. Work in turned rows.)

  • Begin: FSC (see abbreviations) 42, chain and turn (42 sts)
  • Row 1: Sc across, chain and turn (42 sts)
  • Check to make sure that your work is 18″ long. If it isn’t, adjust until it does.
  • Row 2-42 (41 rows): Sc across, chain and turn (42 sts)
  • Check to make sure that the square you’ve just made is 18″ tall. If it isn’t, add a few more rows. Invisible finish off and weave in end. Steam or wet block to size.

FRONT (begin in MC.)

  • Begin: FSC (see abbreviations) 42, chain and turn (42 sts)
  • Row 1: Sc across, chain and turn (42 sts)
  • Check to make sure that your work is 18″ long. If it isn’t, adjust until it does.
  • Rows 2-14 (13 rows): Sc across, chain and turn (42 sts)
  • Row 15: sc 11, PM on the stitch you just worked, sc 21, PM on the stitch you just worked, sc 10, chain and turn (42 sts)
  • Rows 16-31 (16 rows): will be worked according to the colorwork chart below. The stitch markers that you placed in row 15 mark the stitches immediately to the left and right of the chart.
    • That is, the first stitch of the chart begins in the stitch right after the first stitch marker (the 12th stitch), and ends right before the second stitch marker. This should help you count the color change portions.

  • To follow the colorwork chart, read the odd rows from right to left, and the even rows from left to right. The odd rows are the right side, and the even rows are the wrong side. For a more in depth tutorial on reading crochet charts, click here.
  • You will also be using the intarsia method to change colors. All the pink squares in the chart are worked with CC1.
    • When using the intarsia method, make sure to leave all the ends on the wrong side.
    • That means that depending on whether you are working an odd or even row, the ends might be left on the side closer to you or the side away from you.
    • For a great tutorial on intarsia colorwork, see Method 1 in this blog post.
  • Rows 32-42 (11 rows): Sc across, chain and turn (42 sts)
  • Check to make sure that the square you’ve just made is 18″ tall. If it isn’t, add a few morerows. Invisible finish off and weave in end. Steam or wet block to size.
Fig. 1: View of finished front.

Crocheting the border

We will now crochet the front and back pieces together by working a single crochet border all around the pillow.

To do this, place the front and back sides together with the wrong sides facing each other. See fig. 2 below for next steps.

Attach yarn anywhere on the side, and insert your crochet hook through both front and back pieces.

Work one single crochet stitch for every row, and place three single crochet stitches at each corner. When you have worked around three sides, stuff with the pillow insert, then finish crocheting the last side.

Finish off, and weave in end.

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Your Bear Throw Pillow is all done! I hope you enjoyed crocheting it and found the pattern helpful. I would love to see your finished amigurumi, so share a picture on Instagram with me by using the #littleworldofwhimsy and tagging me @littleworldofwhimsy.